That is a good question. Let's be clear. Not everyone needs speakers or subwoofers as good as SVS makes. But heck, not everyone "needs" a home theater or music room either. If you and your "significant other" are content watching movies at low level, or you primarily watch VHS tape or cable TV, one of our subwoofers or speaker packages might be "more" than you need or want. Despite affordable prices, this is serious sound in terms of both quantity and quality. Nearly anyone hearing products we build will quickly appreciate why they cost more then less expensive models, even those from "big" brands. Still, if you have laserdisc, HDTV, or DVD you probably do want speakers and subwoofers like ours. SVS build them specifically to make your favourite movies and music sound just as the director or musical artist intended. If you call the place you watch movies a "Home Theater" you almost certainly can appreciate the truly deep bass and natural highs SVS can bring you.
But why would you want real, deep and ultra powerful bass no matter what brand speakers you might have? Simply stated - to capture the theater experience at home. With the advent of DVD movies and Dolby Digital and DTS surround sound-tracks, such sound is finally possible in your home. Again, that's theatrical sound in both quantity and quality, or concert-like music. Surprisingly, while there are hundreds, perhaps even thousands, of great choices in full range audio speakers (for your main, center, and surround channels), the number of subwoofers which can affordably supply both deep and accurate theatrical sounding bass are fairly slim. In fact, such bass is downright rare at prices most people can afford.
Most importantly, true deep powerful bass is critical to realistic home theater. If all the surround sound was icing, bass is the cake. Some feel it's the foundation upon which the theatrical experience rests. The ".1" of Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound is usually dedicated to subwoofers for a good reason. When an explosion rips, the tanks roll, or the pipe organs rumble, it's your subwoofer that makes the difference between "good sound" and sound you can feel too, and it should feel real.
Very few people have heard what an honest sub-woofer can do for their audio system. Those that have can't live without one. All SVS subwoofers will blend perfectly with your brand speakers, and of course if you start out with an SVS surround sound speaker package, you know every aspect of design, even the finish will be a perfect match.
What are some important things to look for when buying a subwoofer?
So what's the key to a quality sub? First and foremost, you, the customer must enjoy the subwoofer. It doesn't matter if the "numbers" or "specs" say it's perfect..... if you don't like the way it sounds.... what good is it? However, a subwoofer should meet some basic verifiable performance goals if it's going to perform well subjectively and objectively, for the majority of HT enthusiasts. In no particular order... these goals include:
- Low distortion (THD)
- Low GD (group delay) to subsonic levels
- Flat frequency response
- High output capacity
Something to consider in terms of performance... if a subwoofer can produce 110dBs (very loud) with low distortion at 40hz, we feel it should produce as close to that output as possible, right down to its low frequency extension limits. This is called "flat" or "linear" response. Unfortunately, the vast majority of commercial subwoofers are very non-linear in this regard. It's not uncommon for a subwoofer that produces 110dB at 40hz, to only have the ability to produce 90dB at 20hz. (or less, often much less). Keep in mind this means such a subwoofer produces roughly 6 times more acoustical energy at a relatively high bass frequency, then it is capable of doing down low.
Wonder why some subwoofers are said to sound "boomy and unnatural" when you turn them up to loud? well, right there is a large part of the answer to that question. While it is true that there are far more instances of 40 Hz bass in most modern movie soundtracks (and music) then there are at 20 Hz, or probably even 30 Hz, we feel strongly that both should be handled with equal ease, and portray the levels and emphasis on different bass frequencies that the movie's makers intended. Needless to say, the preponderance, or overemphasis, of mid-bass is not something most manufacturers are interested in talking about.
And "flat" frequency response is only part of the picture. Flatness at the sound pressure levels (SPL) commercial theaters are capable of (adjusted for smaller HT rooms of course) is what you should be after. We adhere to the point of view that the two most important aspects of HT bass are headroom, and ensuring subwoofer placement and calibration so each seat is optimized to have as smooth a response curve as possible for that listener/viewer.
Many people don't realize that the bass requirements for true Dolby Digital (DD) standardized reference level movie sound is actually quite different to achieve (or could previously only be done at very high cost). If you listen to reference levels, Dolby Labs requires minimum of 115dB with limited distortion at each seat... down to the lowest frequencies on the DVD (usually about 15-25hz). Most reasonable priced subwoofers don't provide more than a small fraction of this sort bass requirement.
What if I already have speakers or a subwoofer?
If you have a subwoofer or speakers already, and find them perfectly adequate, there might not be much argument for upgrading. But, consider this... most "subwoofers" are really nothing more than mid-bass "woofers" that support relatively small satellite main or surround speakers. And many speakers? Mass produced at the lowest possible cost with little regard to achieving concert or theater realism. Now, there is nothing wrong with the concept of inexpensive speakers, but few customers truly desiring realistic sound will spend less then $2000 for a full 5.1 surround sound system. We consider this to be about the lowest cost most OEMs can produce a genuinely quality set of speakers with deep sound as part of the package, For music only, inexpensive systems can perform quite well since they will rarely be required to touch the first octaves of audio. The usual "sub-Sat" arrangements generally do a fine job of providing relatively low levels of mid-bass (which we'll put in the 120hz to 45hz range). This however is not true bass, and it's far from what's required for reproducing today's movie soundtracks the way they were intended.
True, deep bass, from roughly 20-45hz is what you hear, when you go to a first rate commercial theater is needed to balance out the mid and high frequency audio (which is generally easier to produce from the standpoint of the physics involved in). For convincing theater sound with today's DVD movies you need effortless bass that extends to 20-25hz or even a bit lower. Many commonly available commercial subwoofers manage to squeak out a few dBs in this range, but very few can provide adequate levels of low-distortion, high-power bass at the levels you'll hear, and feel, in the theater. This limitation applies to the vast majority of subwoofers, even those sold to augment home theater systems. Yet, those that can reach true bass levels are frequently well over $4500, and that's for only the subwoofer.
If you've drilled down from our subwoofer page, you already know how affordable our subwoofers and speaker packages are, but integrating a subwoofer or even the speakers alone (say you have a perfectly adequate subwoofer already) into your existing system is very easy to do. This is especially true if you watch DVD's and your sound system is equipped with a Dolby Digital receiver or surround processor. We are so certain that adding one of our subwoofer, speaker or full system packages will make a radical improvement in your home theater and music enjoyment that we offer a 45day money back trial period. (see warranty page for further details).
Should I consider dual SVS subwoofers?
Absolutely! Getting real theater levels of accurate, deep and powerful bass is far more difficult then most people realize. Though whether you really need dual subwoofers depends on a few fundamental issues... primarily listening habits and room size.
First things first. How loud do you listen to your movies and music? Do you find that relatively modest levels are more then adequate when watching a movie? Maybe you live in an apartment and can't really turn up the volume that much? If you are in a constant battle of keeping the volume low enough, then one SVS is almost certainly enough. In moderate sized rooms even one SVS subwoofer will greatly extend the bass performance of nearly any audio system, and will provide even better bass then most HT enthusiasts have ever experienced. But despite the fact SVS subs perform as well (and usually better) then subs costing far more, there is a limit to what they can do. A matter of physics really.
This is particularly true in very large rooms, or HT areas that open up into other areas of your living space. Creating effective bass requires a sort of pressure (from sound waves, propagated by moving art). Essentially, the larger the room, the more difficult it is to reach the levels of smooth, deep bass you will find it a top-rate commercial movie theater (which if top-rate can reach Dolby Labs reference levels for clean bass; or 115dBs right to the lower limits of the bass track. That's a lot of bass!). So if you are the sort that simply must be able to "take it to 11" with bass so deep and powerful you'll think that theaters are lacking (especially if you have a large room), then we strongly urge you to plan on getting a pair of SVS subs.
What can you expect with dual subs then? If you are able to co-locate two SVS subs in a common corner of your HT, you can expect (regardless of which size sub you have) roughly 6dBs increased "headroom" throughout the sub's response. 6dBs might not sound like much on paper, but it translates to about double the acoustic energy ( as you would expect). So where one SVS sub might be straining to produce the deepest bass of your DVDs at high levels, dual subs can often just coast along, with accordingly less distortion too. When dual SVS subs go to the limit you'll begin to fear for the structural integrity of your HT walls!.
If you are continually giving demos of all your favorite DVDs, to all your favorite friends and family, dual subs are probably the best way to ensure your bass system is up to the task. Given the exceptionally difficult task subwoofers have to attain true reference levels of bass, and the relative affordable nature of SVS subs, we make it easy.
One of SVS subs will drop your jaw with deep, accurate bass. Two will keep it on the floor permanently. "With twin subs, every movie will remind you this is what theaters aspire to sound like, we do know this is more than many people need or want though.
Where do I put my SVS subwoofer?
You might have noticed that SVS subwoofers are sometimes big (yes, it's one of those instances when size does matter). There are a lot of very good reasons for this. Still, most of our customers find these subs very elegant, understated and stylish.
Many many theories abound regarding subwoofer placement. Their sound is essentially omni directional and they are difficult to locate by ear. Yet for the lowest extension and the greatest natural reinforcement of the bass sound pressure level (SPL) corner placement is nearly always best in nearly every shape room (and regardless of the brand of subwoofer) wherever possible, avoid placement where the sub is adjacent to openings into other rooms such as hallways and open doors. A closed corner, relatively near the prime listening position in your home theater is nearly always ideal. Just be certain to recalibrate (set the playback level) as you move your sub to different locations. Moving even a foot or two (say from a wall to a corner) can have a radical impact on how the bass sounds in your listening position. Just think of your room as another part of your speaker system.
How do I use a sound level meter to calibrate?
Proper calibration of your surround sound system, including your SVS subwoofer, this is not only easy, it's downright critical! On the left is a sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter; using one is akin to checking your car tires with an air pressure gauge. If you don't have one (the SPL meter that is) by all means you should get one. You can buy one direct from Deep Hz. Audio just click onto Buy Now and we can send one out to you. We prefer this model to the digital display SPL meter due to the analog version's ease in getting spot-on adjustments.
Why is calibration of the levels of your surround system so important? Well think of it this way in the old days you could just adjust the "Balance" knob on your stereo and get that center image (of the singer, or various instruments) "just right". Try to imagine doing that with 6 channels of a digital surround sound system for a minute! Get any of those channels out of balance by a few decibels (dBs something all but certain without a meter) and the complex realism of the soundstage DVD's and the new high resolution music formats are capable of, goes right out the window.
Start by playing your receiver's internal teat tones so you have something to measure with your SPL meter. Or better yet a calibration disc, like "Avia" also available from Deep Hz. Audio. It's a test disc of calibration tones to ensure your entire signal path from the DVD player to your speakers is set correctly.
Make sure your receiver/processor master volume is set at "00 dB" or another easy to remember level, it will become your "reference level" one very close to that intended for home theaters by Dolby Labs. Finally set your subwoofer amp's volume control. Note here if you have a "PC-type" subwoofer put the volume/gain knob to no more than 1/4th to 1/3rd of the way up. If it's a separate pro-type amp for a CS-type subwoofer, run the gain full (it's a different sort of amp design and expects to be set up this way). It's a good idea to check the subwoofer level control of your receiver before you begin the test tones. Keep the receiver's subwoofer output control to about 25% up or lower then "0dB". This will allow your amp to work with the cleanest signal possible from your receiver while still leaving plenty of downward adjustment you can use from your viewing position (using the remote). As the tones start alternating speaker to speaker (watching the sound meter now) set each speaker's volume to 75dB or 85dB (depending on your tone source) using the receiver's channel controls. Not all test disc or receivers are the same when it comes to calibration tones however, if using a test DVD like Video Essentials should allow you to calibrate reference level at 75dB. Ovation's "Avia" DVD is recorded at a higher level to improve signal to noise ratios during calibration, so you need to measure instead to 85dB for all channels if you use it and not Video Essentials.
What to set the sub to? you might find that a higher level relative to your main speakers is preferable. In other words set to a bit higher than 75dB or 85dB depending on your calibration tone source. Tastes vary and so do movie soundtracks but your SVS subwoofer is capable of tremendous levels of low distortion low frequency bass. Take advantage of this especially if you like action movies with lots of ".1" channel low frequency effects (LFE). Keep in mind to that the human ear is relatively insensitive to low frequencies. This coupled with the fact most people don't watch movies at Dolby Digital reference level (loud!) means tweaking the bass up a few dBs usually yields a better movie sound experience.
As you continue to calibrate you'll briefly need to rotate the sound meter level dial to the 80dB setting to get a good reading on the subwoofer if you go beyond the level of your main speakers as we recommend. Don't forget that most modern surround sound receivers allow completely different subwoofer level settings, depending on the listening mode you are in. With "DVD" as your "source" use the above calibration routine. You may well find that "CD" (music) calls for a lower bass setting for the best balance in your home theater (try setting this by ear with music you are familiar with). The above is a guide. Experiment!
What does that mean?
Home theater (HT) terms. They can be confusing and make no mistake even the old hands will debate the meaning of some of them until exhaustion. We keep things simple but will seek to cover all the terms you are likely to run into while at SVS & Deep Hz. Audio.
So if you are curious or just want to know about some of the terms and abbreviations stand for read on.
-dB Short for decibel (deci-Bell) a unit of sound, 3dB takes twice the accoustic power to attain!.
-DD Dolby Digital, the most popular form of digital surround sound, usually found on DVD soundtracks. Actually a compression algorithm that can provide 1 to 6 channels of movie audio.
-DPL Dolby Pro Logic. The last generation of non-discreet channel surround sound. Derived from two "matrixed" channels.
-DTS Digital Theater System similar to DD, but with less compression.
-HT Home Theater.
-Hz Short for Hertz.
-LD Laserdisc, grandfather to the DVD. Still capable of great picture and sound.
-LFE Low Frequency Effects.
-MDF Medium Density Fiberboard, the speaker panel material of choice. Far superior resonance characteristics to standard "particle board".
-RMS A common and accurate way to rate the power of an amplifer.
-SPL Sound Pressure Level, a fancy way of saying "Volume". Usually measured in dBs.
-Sub Short for subwoofer
-5.1 Reference to five full range channels and one bass only channel.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
